By Shubhra Krishan
Chalking out your next trip to Britain? How about Afternoon Tea at Ellenborough Park, a 15th-century country estate situated a 10-minute chauffeur-driven Bentley ride from the iconic Cheltenham Race Course? An incredible pleasure flight on a helicopter, gazing down at the stunning Cotswolds? Shooting clay pigeons in a sprawling Scottish estate? And sipping luxury hot chocolate at the café where Prince William and Kate first met?
We were invited to experience all of these, and more. Over the course of nine days soaked in sensory indulgence, we discovered a side of Britain that we could have imagined only in our dreams.
Of course, this royal journey through the land, replete with ye olde England charm and good ol’ fun, was the ultimate in indulgence. But my biggest takeaway from it was the happy realisation that most of these can be yours without breaking the bank! No, really. For example, that afternoon tea at Ellenborough Park stars classic British sandwiches, strawberries with Devonshire clotted cream, delicately handcrafted cakes and pastries on the menu…and costs just £25. Book ahead, and you could grab a helicopter flight for less than under £100: an unforgettable glide over the storybook-pretty countryside.
You could explore the quiet countryside of the Cotswolds or discover the histories and charm of the Scottish cities of Aberdeen and Edinburgh. Whatever your liking, make sure you enjoy the holiday at your own pace, because when you travel royally, time is an affordable luxury.
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Cheltenham & Winchcombe
Days to enjoy: 6-7
The drive to Winchcombe Lodge in the heart of the Cotswolds takes about three hours from London. Let your luxurious journey begin with a relaxed evening and undisturbed night at this dreamy estate. You are a short trot away from Cheltenham, where high-adrenaline action awaits!
But for now, feast your eyes on the undulating green hills and quiet villages with honey-stoned homes, as you coast along the Cotswolds. Along the way, stop by at lovely little towns such as Moreton-in-Marsh and Bourton-on-the-Water, where you can shop for Cotswold cheese, smoked violet garlic bulbs, artisan gifts and much more.
A walk through Sudeley Castle reveals small manicured gardens and the mighty stone walls of the castle, complete with Tudor windows and Gothic arches.
The Lodge at Winchcombe sets the tone for your relaxing vacation. The 5-star country house has eleven individually designed suites, tastefully decorated with all the luxuries one might expect from a boutique-style hotel. Dine in secluded gardens under the night sky or unwind in the comfort of your suite with a bottle of rare bubbly.
After a walking through the rambling lanes of Winchcombe, satiate your hunger at the acclaimed 5 North Street, a family-run Michelin starred restaurant. The owners make the best of the abundant seasonal produce at their disposal. As a result, every dish which comes on the table is a gustatory masterpiece. Dig in!
For a more traditional and laidback experience, head to The Lion Inn for a hearty meal. The cheery atmosphere coupled with the rustic interiors is enough to make you fall head over heels in love with the town pub.
Cheltenham in the Cotswolds is especially close to the royal family’s heart. It is where Zara Phillips, celebrated Olympian and Queen’s eldest granddaughter, lived before moving to Gatcombe Park.
Every year come the spring days of March, Cheltenham, usually gracefully silent, witnesses a raucous stomping of well-bred horses racing to win the Gold Cup Festival held at the Cheltenham Racecourse. The foundation stones for the historical racecourse were laid as long back as 1815, when the first race took place.
Today, the sprawling grounds of the racecourse host over 700 million eager visitors every year. To see the sacred grounds of horse racing and to get up close and personal with its equine residents, take one of the exclusive tours. An experienced personal guide provides all the information that you need—and more.
There’s plenty to fill your day at the races. Ride, royal style, to the race course in a chartered Lamborghini. Dress to the nines, complete with a stylish hat, and tour the stables as the horses neigh in greeting and experience excitement as you stand at the finishing post; the feeling of victory is infectious. Finally, stare with awe at the unrestricted view of the rolling green estate stretching out in front of your eyes as you savour the delicacies on offer at the refreshment tea service.
Between races, amble down to the shopping area, studded with shops selling stylish hats, beautiful coats, quirky accessories and more.
To spend more time with the equine creatures, visit the Longdole Polo Club to take polo lessons. Opened in 1992, the Club has evolved into a premier centre for training school and college students, as well as visitors. If you thought polo was a rather intimidating sport, this is where you’ll feel the myth vanishing, within moments of meeting the experienced trainers. For a more immersive experience, book the barn on the property for the weekend.
Sitting on its own 90-acre estate, the elegant Ellenborough Park hotel has its core building dating back to the early 1500s. The impressive honey-stone manor house stands proud in the middle, its castle-like towers reaching out into the clear Cotswolds sky. With rooms decorated in the traditional British style and a staff which is charming and heartfelt, a stay in the hotel gives a feel of the Downtown Abbey era.
At the Racecourse
The cherry on top is the unparalleled view of the Cheltenham racing grounds, given the hotel’s proximity to the racecourse. On race day, a pair of good binoculars will help you to keep track of the equestrian events. What is also striking about Ellensborough Park is the value for money the sprawling hotel offers. The price of double rooms, around 189 GBP, is fairly inexpensive compared to other upscale hotels.
A trip to Cheltenham is incomplete without tucking into the iconic pub grub on offer at the various pubs strewn over the town. The Green Dragon Inn serves superb seasonal produce that lies somewhere between traditional pub grub and chic cuisine. The crackling log fires coupled with low ceilings and a cosy bar make it a place where you would definitely want to hop in time and again for a satisfying meal.
The Lucky Onion is a family of hotels, inns and restaurants (including No 131 Promenade Cheltenham, where we dined), currently consists of six Lucky Onion properties; each one with its own distinct character and personality. This is a dining experience which would be almost disrespectful to miss. Delighting with food which has made many a food critic sing high praises of its dishes, the restaurant is one of the best in all of the Cotswolds.
To explore Cheltenham from an altogether different view, hop into a private chartered helicopter at the Gloucestershire Airport and take in the rolling countryside spread like a carpet under you, dotted with stone architecture. Sadly, the mist played villain and we had to give this a miss. If you are there on a sunny day, sign up! It promises to be an indelible memory in your travel album.
Aberdeen & Edinburgh
Days to enjoy: 6-7
If Cotswolds is famous for its honey-stone architecture, Aberdeen is known for its elegant silver-grey granite personality.
One of the prettiest in the world, Edinburgh is a city that embraces the new without forgetting to give ode to its medieval history. Discover quaint eateries in the Old Town or experience the finest Scotch along the Royal Mile: Edinburgh brims with gastronomical pleasures in a romantic setting.
A 1.25 hour flight takes you from Birmingham to Aberdeen, Scotland. From there, it’s a short, picturesque drive to Douneside House, showcasing Great Britain in a glorious new light. When we arrived, light snow had just dusted the landscape, creating an enchanting pre-Christmas scenery.
Douneside House
Located on the outskirts of a small village called Tarland, the rambling Douneside House within the grounds of the MacRobert Estate is a destination on its own. The 17-acre gardens, with bubbling rock pools, a green house and even a walled garden, offer the perfect grounds for exploration. The furnishings are an elegant mix of modern and vintage, with an old Louis Vuitton travel case taking pride of place in the entrance hall of the house. A comfortable sunny room can be yours for an incredible £85 in the off-season!
Relax at the iconic RAF themed bar which is a respectful nod to the history of the property. The landowner, Lady MacRobert, lost two of her three sons in RAF service. I for one have seldom enjoyed a dinner as much as I did at Douneside. Every leaf and spice and fruit in every dish they serve has the touch of a master’s hand!
There’s plenty to enjoy in and around Douneside House— there’s a 9-hole golf course in nearby Tarland. You can go salmon fishing in the rivers Dee and Don. Hiking, biking and driving along the magnificent scenery will fill you with serenity as effortlessly as the trees soak up sunlight!
Douneside also makes a great base for you to explore the region’s famous Castle Trail. Crathes, Drum, Craigievar, Castle Faser and of course, the grounds of the mighty Balmoral are all short rides away.
Balmoral Castle
Every summer, Queen Elizabeth II makes her yearly pilgrimage to the Balmoral Castle. The idyllic 50,000-acre property features a whopping 150 buildings.
When the Royal Family is in residence, Balmoral is closed, but offers guided tours during winter. Visit for an interesting tour or, for a truly royal experience, stay at the one of the many accommodations available onsite.
Glen Tanar Estate
To deepen your close-to-nature experience n these parts, stop by at Glen Tanar estate set in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park. The Estate is the ideal base to explore the Scottish moorlands and forests. Take a guided tour in a Land Rover, a luxurious upgrade on the usual jungle safari. Be prepared to spot red deer, golden eagles, merlins and other fauna which roam the countryside. You could spend a night or seven here, watching how the fields and forests change complexion day after heavenly day.
The drive from Aberdeen to Edinburgh will take up most of your day, but en route there are some incredible attractions to enjoy.
First up, Dunnottar Castle in Stonehaven looms up like a photographer’s fondest dream come true. This magnificent ruin should come with a gentle warning— it invites you to stay and stare long enough to send your itinerary awry! At the time of writing this, a tour of the castle costs just £7 per adult, but remember, those views are priceless.
By now, the sumptuous breakfast at Douneside is duly digested, and the appetite has ignited again. Presto! You’re crossing Northpoint Café, where Prince William first met Kate. Pick up a bunch of scones for later, and enjoy a cuppa tea or hot chocolate, before heading out to St. Andrews.
For more than 600 years, St Andrews Links has felt the tread of every great champion. Millions of golfers have hammered and hacked, swatted and swiped at balls of wood, leather, gutta percha and balata. It has felt the caress of hickory and the sharp assault of blades of steel and titanium. It is a living, breathing timeline, and you feel like a royal as you swing your club for a quick lesson in the sport.
Later, tuck into a delectable lunch at Swilcan Lounge on the golf link: it offers panoramic view of the courses. And before you leave, set aside a good hour to stroll the beautiful town of St. Andrews, with its charming boutique stores.
An early start from Aberdeen— say at about 8 in the morning— gets you into Edinburgh by twilight. Staying true to your royal-themed vacation, look no further than the most stunningly beautiful property in the city:
Prestonfield House seduces with its opulence. The Baroque mansion has an atmosphere which oozes drama and romance. It is wildly grand, in contrast to its quiet setting. Even connoisseurs of luxury will find themselves gawking at the sweeping arches and unique antique ambience. The lavishly furnished suites floor you with their irresistible charm. Sipping tea cushioned in one of the silk armchairs as you observe a roaring log fire will definitely be one of the highlights of your trip. I drew the curtains apart, only to find a bevy of proud peacocks strutting in the gardens.
Next, Dinner at Rhubarb, the hotel’s iconic restaurant. It is more than a meal. It is a celebration of luxury and gastronomy. The produce is sourced from Scottish artisan suppliers and the wine comes from an award-winning cellar. The dramatic, ultra-romantic setting transports you back into eighteenth-century grandeur. And believe it or not, this is a luxury you can enjoy for under £25.
Many visitors to Edinburgh miss out on one of its most amazing attractions. Make sure you don’t! Take a taxi to Edinburgh’s waterfront and visit the Royal Yacht Britannia.
Christened in 1953, the yacht was the Queen’s home away from home as she sailed around the world. She decorated it herself to make it feel like a country home at sea. Now harboured permanently at Edinburgh, step in to get a peek into the inside world of royalty. Your tour of the great vessel ends with tea and scones, assuredly among the best you have ever savoured.
In the Royal Family, the Christmas activities continue on December 26 with an annual shoot. To experience the royal tradition for yourself, head to Winton Castle. It offers clay-pigeon shooting, something which few other castles do. Walk down the tree-lined estate to the shooting area, feeling the leaves crunch under your boot and the sun warm your shoulders. Clay pigeon expert Billy Gordon teaches you how to hold the gun, aim and shoot. I have to say I fell way short of target, but it is interesting just to watch shooters splitting the clay birds mid-air.
Following this, head to the castle for a sumptuous spread of chicken, lamb, and potatoes prepared by Winton’s chef. It’s something you would imagine the royals doing after an eventful shoot.
Scotch Whisky, with its golden hue and rich overtones is considered ambrosia by many lovers of tipple. If you are one of them or just enjoy a glass of Scotch after a tiring day, The Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh will be just what the doctor ordered. Walk through the interiors of a replica distillery to know all the secrets of the much-loved alcoholic drink. Also, you could get a whiff of the different aromas of whisky, admire the very instagrammable World’s Largest Collection of Scotch Whisky and finally sip on a dram of Scotch Malt whisky. Who knows, you might just walk out of the tour a whisky connoisseur!
Perched on the roof of the historic Museum of Scotland, the aptly named The Tower restaurant boasts stunning views of Edinburgh’s Castle and the city’s skyline. Sleek but still holding an aura of historical charm, the restaurant will surprise your palette with dishes that are stylish but also an ode to traditional Scottish cuisine. Dine from their exhaustible menu featuring dishes like the Aberdeen Angus lamb among other meat and seafood options.
Travel Secrets was hosted in the Cotswolds and Scotland by Visit Britain. We are grateful to all the hotels and companies that made our stay an incredible, unforgettable experience.
If you’d like to explore a lesser-known, hidden gem in Britain, check out this story
