By Chhavi Doonga
I had forever wanted to stay on a houseboat in Kashmir, and finally I did. The weather was a welcome change from the mugginess of Delhi. I straightaway headed to Boulevard Road, and hired a boat to row me to my house-on-the-water. This would be my home for the next four days.
Hmm. So the view is slightly different from what one expects – there aren’t any moving houses on flowing water (though later it turned out only I had such a fascination, but there HAS to be someone else too!). The houseboats or ‘Doongas’ as they are traditionally called, etched on the edge of the still Dal Lake are in fact more like long elongated boats with walls.
Those Fun, Filmy Names!
This long stretch of boats lined one after the other encircling the lake, almost creating a colony of their own prove to be one of Srinagar’s paramount attractions. Our destination was- Ghat no.16 at the Shabnam houseboat, the name is perhaps a cute Bollywood inspiration or an attempt to keep up the trend of unusual names that the houseboat owners give to their creations. Names like ‘Meena bazar’, ‘Queen Elizabeth’, ‘Robin hood , ‘Happy dawn’ , ‘Taj palace’ or ‘Buckingham Palace’ kept us entertained during our ride in the local Kashmiri gondola called the Shikara.
The shikara ride is not very different from any other boat ride; the only thing that changes is perhaps the scenic view – so alluring that the ride seems like one you’ll never get to take again, making all the difference. After ten minutes of serene boating through the Lake, we finally reached Shabnam.
As we stepped inside the sitting hall, the décor gave us something of a Victorian feeling! We wondered what English furniture was doing in Kashmiri houseboats, when Altaf, our caretaker whilst our stay at Shabnam told us that at the time of the ‘raj’ these houseboats were originally built by the British seeking permanent residence in Kashmir. They were denied permission to occupy land by the maharaja and so, they created their homes on water. Well, at least some of the houseboat names made sense now!
A Delicious Slice of Local Life
One doesn’t realise how the evening passes in Srinagar savouring Kashmir’s rich culture, traditions and beauty. Touring the city by a Shikara, you get a bird’s eye view of the ancient city flanking the banks of the Jhelum. You can observe life on the banks as well as the life of the people who still live on the water. The fascinating language and magnificent views of the hills add to the pleasing weather with a pinch of the chilly breeze.
That night as we came back to our house boat with a blazing appetite, an unusual gourmet experience awaited us. Our chef prepared the finest Kashmiri dishes, including barbecued lamb kebabs marinated in fragrant herbs), Rista (juicy, delicately seasoned lamb meatballs), Tabaq maz, fresh saffron rice and Goshtaba, dishes typically prepared only as part of the special Wazwan celebrations. . For desserts we had- firni (a special dessert pudding made of rice, raisins, nuts, saffron and milk) and a pot of Kahwa (Kashmiri green tea).
A Home Away From Home in Kashmir
The houseboat is a true home-like experience. We were told that our meals during our stay could be made to order, provided we informed the chef two hours prior. So we made our pre-order for the breakfast for some paranthas (can’t leave the Delhi-walla in me behind!). After the delicious meal, we discovered a rooftop sundeck from which one could take in the Himalayan views and enjoy the brisk fresh air.
We sat on the roof under the dark blanket of the night, glittering in all the right places. For an extra touch of Kashmir, Altaf gave us a sheesha, which according to him goes perfectly with the aura upstairs. Surprisingly, we enjoyed our hookah session that chilly night, viewing the silent lake whose ripples were blending with our conversations.
I think you need to live in a houseboat at least once, for the morning view! The first thing we did as we woke up was to rush out to the balcony. The Dal Lake looks the most beautiful at dawn. The sight of children going to school and people going to work on the smaller and more local shikaras in the light of the early morning sun is extremely pleasing. A local woman sang a Kashmiri melody as she was rowing one of such small shikara that morning. We didn’t know what the song meant, but we knew she was grateful to God. Just as we were to be able have this enchanting experience, a travel secret we would cherish forever.
Things You Need to Know
Before you pack your bags and plan that trip to Kashmir, here are some tips that will come in handy if you plan to live in a houseboat :
- Don’t get fooled by the high prices of the shikaras, as a resident of the houseboat you are entitled to at least two complementary rides in a day.
- Carry mosquito repellent so that you are able to enjoy the view without buzzing disturbances.
- Try not to buy jewellery or other items that the Shikara wallahs bring to your houseboat. Usually, they are overly priced and you’ll get the same thing for much less at the markets in the city.
- You can go Jet skiing or do other water sports in Dal Lake, but don’t go swimming – you can never be sure of its cleanliness.
- If you are out travelling in the city then try coming back before midnight, because even though the houseboats boast about 24×7 service, you will end up struggling to find one at night!
