By Shubhra Krishan
It is almost the end of the world, and I am happy. Standing here, who wouldn’t be?
At the foot of the Pacific Ocean, Canada’s Prince Rupert Island is a jewel of a place, crowned by gleaming snow peaks. Alaska is a soft whisper away. For miles all around, there is nothing but an open road and blue sky.
Just two hours ago, I was in the midst of a bustling city—Vancouver. But from the whirring wings of the Hawk Air Bombardier that lifted me off, to the soft ripples beneath the ferry that deposited me here, the noise slowly fell away, and peace took over.
The morning is still young, and diaphanous mist hovers like a tentative lover on the bosom of the island, dipping lightly down for a kiss when the breeze nudges it.
My host Bruce Wishart, a handsome Canadian with a complexion that owes its glow to these wonderfully moist environs, straightaway whisks me off on a tour of the tiny town. The SUV curves lazily around the ribboned roads, sliding past spacious homes that are now basking in gentle sunshine.
We stop to gaze at some towering totem poles erected by the Tsimshian people who lived here thousands of years ago. For those who need their fix of history, there’s plenty here, beginning with the story of Charles Melville Hayes who had grand plans for this island but went tragically down with the Titanic. Incredible as it seems today, Prince Rupert Island was one of North America’s most populous regions before the Europeans made contact.
At one point, we screech to a halt, barely avoiding hitting a majestic creature that lopes artfully away. “Deer!” I exclaim, filled with childlike excitement at my first spotting of wildlife. My host arches an amused eyebrow and tells me that for all its endearing looks, the deer is actually a bane for the residents of the island. It likes to steal into their manicured lawns and nibble on lovingly nurtured leaves, leading to much frustration. Makes me realise how relative the term ‘stress’ can be.
In the colourful Cow Bay district, kick back with a coffee and a morning snack. Up on Third Avenue, explore a wide range of lunch spots and unique places to grab a bite. Find a food truck serving up a quick lunch or sit down to enjoy a delicious meal to keep you fueled up for the day.
Sophisticated and unique dining options are baked into the DNA of Prince Rupert Island. You can find a wide range of incredible local restaurants offering a memorable lunch or dinner experience. Nestled into beautiful heritage buildings or perched over the harbour with sweeping views, the setting offers a perfect pairing for your meal.
There are plenty of options for an after-dinner drink, from laid-back pubs to funky lounges where you can finish the evening with a cocktail or local brew.
Come twilight, and we zoom off for another drive. Just a few miles from the island, we cross a string of lovely bungalows, majestic in their isolation. These, I am told, belong to those who find even Prince Rupert too ‘noisy’ for their liking. All I can say is, imagine these people on a trip to Delhi or Mumbai!
After a relaxing hour in the hotel, I step out for a spot of shopping. Right across the street is a massive quaint store stacked with things of almost all description. Books, records, antiques, furniture, coins…! The owner, a hearty Canadian, informs me that he only sells some of the stuff in here. “The rest is for myself,” he says, a mischievous twinkle in his sea-blue eyes.
Dinner is at the beautiful Crest Hotel, where Chef Willy Beaudry’s experienced hand dishes up an exquisite spread. I sit there savouring my wood-fired pizza, watching a majestic cruise liner lay anchor for the night. Who needs a meditation camp? This, right here, is bliss! Chef Beaudry also shared with us a recipe that is one of the best-sellers at his gourmet restaurant. Here’s his famous salmon recipe that he gave us, and we give it to you!
Shop at: Home Work craft store on Cow Bay Road, an Aladdin’s cave of unusual treasures.
Dine at: Waterfront Restaurant, overlooking the harbour
Stay at: Crest Hotel www.cresthotel.bc.ca
Must Do: Salmon fishing, whale watching and bear watching
Must See: North Pacific Cannery Museum, established in 1889, and almost completely intact.
Additional info courtesy: Visit Prince Rupert
Featured video courtesy: Life is Like Sailing
